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How To Get Better Build Plate Adhesion? Bed Adhesion Test Print

How do you get better to build plate adhesion? This blog post will discuss the various methods that are available for getting better build plate adhesion.

There are many different factors that affect the quality of your 3D prints, and this is one of them.

It can be challenging to come up with a solution when you don’t know where to start, but hopefully, this article provides some great tips on how to get better build plate adhesion!


How to get better build plate adhesion? (bed/bed adhesion)

A good way to make strong things is to start with a well-calibrated build plate. If you want something that is strong, then you should set the distance between the nozzle and the build plate right. If you want something that is accurate, then calibrate the position of the nozzle.

For material with low adhesive force, it is said that enabling the printer’s skirt can help to prevent objects from falling off during print. However, I have yet to see a skirt work well on my Prusa i3 MK2*. Fortunately, there are some tricks that can help to improve the adhesion.

The build plate is usually made of glass or aluminum alloy, and its surface is covered by some kind of paint or adhesive material. The most commonly used one is probably blue painter’s tape. It has good performance in terms of printing quality, print speed, rework ability etcetera. But it comes with a trade-off: Elmer’s white school glue sticks very well to such smooth surfaces but not so much on rough ones like frosted acrylic glass which looks like ABS tends to curl up on an unheated bed.

From my testing, I am confident that Prusa i3 MK2*’s heated aluminum alloy bed makes great contact with the second printed layer and warps less than PLA prints on other machines.

Since I have the red-painted variant, I brushed Elmer’s white school glue on both sides of half-inch square pieces of black electrical tape to cover them entirely with a layer 1/32″ thick.

This way, when printing ABS parts that typically curl off the plate at the end, they will stick much better than directly using painter’s tape.

Since PLA sticks well enough to blue painter’s tape, I did not test any alternative ways to improve its build plate adhesion. But if you want, you can try 3M 468MP transfer adhesive film, which I have not yet tried either.

In conclusion, there is no magic solution for the adhesion problem on 3D printers. There are just a few tricks that can help to improve the situation in some cases.

build plate adhesion types

How To Get Better Build Plate Adhesion? (cre: ultimaker)

Build plate adhesion skirt brim raft slicer support skirt (adhesion settings)

In this article, we will continue from our previous piece on how to successfully print a 3D model using an Ultimaker printer. You will learn the following:

We hope you enjoy this article and that it leads to successful prints! If you have any questions after reading this article, feel free to leave them in the comments section below.

We’re always happy to help out.

Support materials are one of those things that can make or break a print as well as determine if you even want to attempt printing a specific model. In order for your object to come off the printer’s build plate cleanly without bending or breaking, many overhanging surfaces require some form of added material used as support rather than printing the entire model with one material.

This article will discuss how to clear print supports as well as go over a few methods of adding them to your prints. In order for this to make sense, you should have a basic understanding of how 3D models are built from either having the necessary software or understanding the basics from previous articles here on All About Circuits.

If you don’t understand those concepts, you might want to look at some tutorials on YouTube before proceeding.

build plate adhesion skirt

How To Get Better Build Plate Adhesion? (cre: instructables)

With that out of the way, let’s get started! (plate temperature/layer adhesion/adhesion problems)

The Ultimaker printers use what’s called slicing software. Slicing software is used during the print process and determines where material needs to be added (i.e. filament extrusion) in order to create the desired effect or object. There are many different types of slicing software, but we will be using the “Slic3r” version for Ultimaker printers.

Slic3r has a built-in function that adds support where necessary and then prints that layer in another material (usually a cheap easy to melt plastic like PLA). You can change these settings according to how you would like your finished print and click on the “Slice with Slic3r” button. It will then spool up and start slicing your file into layers which it can finally send to the printer. During this process, it’s very common for Slic3r to add more than one type of support material to the file. Let’s talk about how to clear these away.

The first thing you should know is that Ultimaker printers are really nice in terms of not having a million little pieces floating around after a print. That said, it seems like there are always support structures inside your prints even if they’re completely enclosed! The best way I’ve found to get them out is with an Exacto knife and tweezers

You want to remove every single tiny bit of support structure that didn’t cut all the way through or was missed by Slic3r entirely. If you miss one, it’ll be stuck forever because it can act as part of another design element within your finished product.

monoprice 3d printer v2 software

How To Get Better Build Plate Adhesion? (cre: kayako)

After removing all of the support in your pieces, you should have something which looks like this.

Now it’s time to clean off any stray bits of material left on your print pieces. You can do this with a 3M eraser wheel ( link here ), but I found that after running through several prints, the build plate surface looked cloudy because there were so many crumbs stuck to it! This is why our next step is priming the build plate.

Priming the build plate involves wiping down all surfaces with an acetone-based wipe or spray in order to get rid of all oils and contaminants and give a fresh clean surface for prints to adhere to.

Be very careful when using these sprays around small children and pets as acetone is extremely poisonous if ingested or inhaled. Another safety tip is that acetone also dissolves ABS plastic, so be smart when doing this in the same area where you have your Ultimaker printers.

In terms of priming, I prefer to use a wipe over spraying because it allows me to clean every surface on my bed and not worry about getting overspray everywhere except for where I want it.

It’s also better if you have multiple printers going at once as you can keep re-using them rather than having a big spray bottle around with only a little bit in it!

After wiping down all surfaces, let the printer dry out for 30 minutes before starting a new print to make sure all bits of oily residue are gone from both the build plate and the nozzle itself.

Prior to beginning your print, you’ll want to set your “First Layer” temperature accordingly in Slic3r ( link here ). The filament used in Ultimaker printers is designed for their 3D printers so it’s important that you use this temperature when starting new prints or adjusting temperatures in your slicer program.

A recommended first layer temperature for Ultimaker PLA is 220 degrees Celsius. This means if you’re running 20% infill on all of your pieces (link here) then the first layer should be about 44 degrees Celsius (or 111 Fahrenheit).

I like to go 5 degrees higher than this just because I’ve found that with an open build plate design like ours, things can cool down very quickly after each layer. If you’re not getting good results with a PID controller, then you can add a little bit of that into your slicer settings as well to get better first layer adhesion to the build plate.

In terms of materials, I have been printing mostly PLA for this series because it’s cheap and easy to work with in general. The only downside is that it’s a bit brittle compared to ABS so if your design involves any protruding pieces which hit the outside edges, they’ll probably break right off during shipping without some glue or tape holding them in place. Be sure to check out my last article about how Cura settings affect the print quality ( link here ) and feel free to play around with different infill types or external support structures if necessary.

I’ll be back with a final update soon in regards to finding out what happened to my Ultimaker one during the last print which took 24 hours but only ended up halfway done for some reason!

could 3d printing change the world

How To Get Better Build Plate Adhesion? (cre: simplify3d)

Build plate adhesion CuraEngine

Build plate adhesion CuraEngine can print PLA on a variety of surfaces. Some of the most popular ones are BuildTak, Blue Tape, and painter’s tape. The build plate adhesion types available for CuraEngine are:

  • – None (Default) – No adhesion material is added.
  • – Glue Stick – A small amount of glue stick is applied to the first layer.
  • – Glue Stick (Raft) – A thin layer of glue stick is added to the rafting base on top of the brim.
  • – Knife – Plain double-sided tape with no adhesive. The brim is printed and then cut off after printing is completed.

Build plate adhesion on Ultimaker printers CuraEngine can ‘also’ use the standardized adhesion types available in the [ Standard ] and [ Advanced ] print profiles:

– For the [ Standard ], we recommend setting your build plate adhesion to either Glue Stick (Raft) or Glue Stick.

– For the [ Advanced ], we recommend setting your build plate adhesion to either None, Brim (Rafts), or Brim. If you choose one of these options, please make sure that you select a filament-like PLA with a low tendency for warping.

Using a combination of a standard and advanced print profile is also possible. In this case, we recommend using the Standard Print Profile for now. This way, CuraEngine will keep printing with the standardized adhesion types available from the Standard Print Profile, but you can later use specific build plate adhesion options as needed on your Ultimaker printer by just switching to the Advanced Print Profile.


The best way to improve build plate adhesion is by using a pre-coating material. We recommend 3D Prima PLA because it’s easy to use and has excellent results with all kinds of materials. Contact us for more information on how we can help you find the right solution, or if you need any additional insights about this blog post topic.

Further Reading: 

Tags: #Petg #Tpu #Abs #Supports #Panels #Pause #Kidney #Lower #Speed #Creep #Quality #Adhesion #Monoprice  #Filament #Firmware #Bed

Tags:  improve adhesion, bring, sheet, become,  adhesion settings,  print surface,  plate temperature,  minutes read,  layer settings,  adhesion problems, build,  bed leveling,  printer bed adhesion,  build surface,   print bed, education.